Today was another beautiful day in paradise! After a busy morning I snuck away and ran down the trail for a few hours and scored! The wind came up and scared most of the crowd off but I posted up at the hut and waited for the tide to drop out a bit. I ended up surfing for about two or three hours with like five to ten guys out. It was Insane!! The waves were like 3-4 feet and even though the wind was howling, the bay seemed to be blocking it pretty well.
I rode my new 6`2 Doc again and I think that it is my new favorite board! It took a few days to get use to it, but now I love it. The board is amazing, It flies and turns on a dime! I would definitely recommend it to anyone looking for a great all around short board. It works well in punchy beach breaks and long lined up points…
After surfing I went down to check out the boys down at Cole Simlers shop. Cole is one of the most amazing shapers that I have had the pleasure to meet. He has two bitchin groms (check out there cameo in the new aviso catalog), a beautiful wife and still rips when he has a chance to get wet! If you have never tried one of his boards you really should check them out. His top models like the Firefly (bat tail quad) and Black Diamond III (trunk board) are available in now in Carbon Fiber Technology so come on down to our next demo and try one out!!
After going over some new shapes that Cole has been working on and sharing a beer and a laugh with our good friend (and Cole`s shop manager) John “Robo” Robertson, we headed off to the Rib Trader. All the boys hold it down at this place so its always nice to stop by and say hi to a couple of old friends. I feel blessed to be able to live in such a beautiful place, to be able to surf, and most importantly to come in to contact with all of these amazing people. When I look back I know I will think of days like today and smile:)