One thing I have come to realize is that when your expectations are low, it is a lot easier to exceed them. Such was the case today when I decided to hike down the the trail, roll the dice, and see what happened. I ended up surfing clean waist to chest high waves all afternoon with not more than 10 or so guys out (and one girl).
Another thing I realized today was that the 5`0 Aviso BD3 by Cole is the best board I have ever ridden in 2-4 foot waves. The board just fits in the pocket where other boards would not. It has been a while since I rode the 5`0 for a few days, and once again it is like a dream come true. I feel like for me I have to be in shape to ride the 5`0 but when I am it works so well! Sometimes I would rather have the 5`1 BD3 because it paddles insane, but today the 5`0 was just magic…
Checking Lowers/Middles from up on the cliff off Basilone Rd.
Uppers...
Aviso BD3. This twin fin setup works insane...
Looking good...
Another one with nobody on it... A rare sight these days!
Out of the shoes, into the booties....
My surf kit complete with sunblock (Vertra), wax (Bubblegum), ear plugs. fin key and spare Aviso plug!
A beautiful winter afternoon in San Clemente.
Another perfect day...
Capturing the afternoon the way I saw it, through my shades...
